Yorkshire Paint Stripping – Frequently Asked Questions
Before You Book

Q: What items can Yorkshire Paint Stripping handle?
A: We can strip paint and varnish from a wide range of items, including wooden doors, furniture, radiators, metal hardware, and similar pieces. Whether it’s an interior pine door, a chest of drawers, a cast iron fireplace, or even architectural fittings, we likely have experience with it. Our process works on both wood and metal surfaces. (For example, we commonly restore old panel doors, tables, chairs, and even cast iron radiators.) If you have a specific item in mind, feel free to ask – as long as it’s solid wood or solid metal, we can probably strip it.

Q: How do you remove the paint or varnish? What methods are used?
A: We use a “dip and strip” caustic tank process for many items, coupled with gentler hand-stripping for others. In our workshop, items are soaked in a warmed solution of caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) which efficiently removes multiple layers of old oil-based or lead-based paint. After dipping, we rinse the item thoroughly with water to neutralize the chemicals. However, modern water-based paints, acrylics, and polyurethane varnishes aren’t removed well by caustic dipping. For those delicate or newer finishes, we use non-caustic methods – essentially hand stripping with specialized solvent-based strippers or other techniques – to gently lift those coatings. Rest assured, we’ll choose the safest and most effective method for each item’s finish. All work is done by our own trained staff at our facility; we do not send your items to any third party.

Q: Do you work on-site at my home or at your workshop?
A: All work is carried out in-house at our Hull workshop by our team. We do not perform on-site stripping at a customer’s location, because our process involves large tanks and controlled equipment. You will need to either drop off your items with us or use our collection & delivery service (see Delivery & Payment section). Keeping everything in-house lets us maintain full quality control and safety during the stripping process.

Q: I’ve heard horror stories about dipped doors warping or falling apart – is your process safe?
A: We understand the concern. It would be wrong to say there is zero risk, as every piece of wood is a unique natural product. That said, with our expertise and careful techniques, the vast majority of doors and furniture come through the stripping process just fine. We have many years’ experience, so your items are in safe hands. However, we remain honest about the inherent risks: wood can occasionally warp, crack, or joints may loosen when subjected to the stripping and drying process (especially if an item was fragile to begin with). Such occurrences are uncommon, but they can happen. We minimize risks by assessing each item (wood type, construction, etc.) and adjusting our methods accordingly. In short, most solid wood doors are quite safe to dip, but we’ll never guarantee 100% that no issues will arise – we’ll simply use our experience to make it as safe as possible. If we suspect a particular piece is too delicate, we will discuss alternatives with you.

Q: Are there any items that cannot be stripped or should never be dipped?
A: Yes. Only solid wood and solid metal items are fully suitable for caustic tank stripping. Items made of MDF, chipboard, particle board, hardboard, or very thin plywood/laminate or veneer layers are generally not suitable – they can absorb water and chemicals and may warp, delaminate, or even fall apart during or after the process. For example, chipboard, thin laminate and MDF should never be dipped, as they just can’t withstand it. If you have a veneered door or furniture with a thin wood veneer over a core, please let us know; we might attempt a non-caustic hand-strip on it at your request, but there’s a high risk the veneer could lift or blister and we cannot guarantee it won’t be damaged. Likewise, certain solid woods that are very dry or resinous (like old pitch pine, or woods like beech, oak, and ash) can technically be dipped, but they “don’t like it” and may be more prone to warping or discoloration. We can still strip those, but we’ll use extra care or alternative methods as appropriate. Finally, anything with plastic or fabric components should not be dipped (plastics can melt, and obviously we won’t dip anything alive – no matter how much paint your child or pet got into!). If you’re unsure about an item’s materials, we’re happy to advise. When in doubt, we err on the side of caution to protect your piece.

Q: How long does the paint stripping process take?
A: Our typical turnaround is just a few days per item in most cases. For example, dipping and cleaning a door might take around 5–7 working days under normal conditions. We’ll give you an estimated timeframe when you book in your item. Keep in mind this can vary depending on factors like how many layers of paint are on the piece, the type of finish, and our current workload. Occasionally, especially thick paint or intricate pieces might require extra treatments and take a bit longer. We always strive to work efficiently, but we won’t rush at the expense of quality. If you have a deadline (say, you need doors back before contractors come to fit them), let us know and we’ll do our best – just remember that unforeseen delays can happen, so it’s wise not to schedule critical work too tightly around the estimated completion time. We’ll keep you informed if there’s any significant delay beyond the original estimate.

Preparing Your Items

Q: What should I do to prepare my doors or furniture before stripping?
A: Proper preparation is very important. Remove all hardware and fittings from your items before we strip them. This means taking off things like door knobs, handles, locks, latches, letterboxes, knockers, hooks, and any decorative metal pieces or glass. Essentially, anything that isn’t part of the bare wood or metal should come off. If you’re sending a door, take it off its hinges (you can leave the hinge plates on the door if you find it easier, but definitely unscrew it from the frame). Remove any glass panels or mirrors as well – these absolutely should not go in the dip tank (more on glass below). Also, check for small metal pieces like screws, nails, tacks or staples and remove those if possible. Paint tends to linger under hardware and around screws, plus metal can react with the stripping solution. By removing everything, you ensure the paint under those parts can be stripped, and you avoid damage or corrosion to the hardware itself. If something is truly stuck or you’re unable to remove it, let us know – we can try to work around it – but be aware it will be at your own risk if it stays on during stripping. In general, the more you can strip the item down to its bare structure, the better the results and the lower the risk of any mishaps.

Q: Should I take glass panels or mirrors out of doors and furniture?
A: Yes – always remove glass or mirrors if you can. We strongly recommend that any glass in doors (or mirrored panels in furniture) be taken out before stripping. The chemicals and handling involved in the process can seriously damage glass. For example, glass can develop hairline cracks from rapid temperature changes, old stained glass can be weakened, mirror silvering can get cloudy, and chemical fumes can creep behind leaded glass panes. Also, the putty holding old panes can soften and fall out. We will strip an item with glass in it only if you insist and accept the risk, but we cannot be responsible for any breakage, clouding or damage to the glass that occurs. In short: remove the glass to be safe. If you need advice on how to safely remove a particular pane or mirror, we can often help guide you. And if removal isn’t possible, we might use a different method (or suggest not stripping that particular piece). But generally, please take all glass out before we collect or you drop off the item.

Q: I have several doors (or similar items). How do I keep them identified?
A: When you have multiple items, it’s a great idea to label or mark them so you know what’s what later. We encourage customers to discreetly mark each door and its corresponding frame location. For example, if you’re stripping all the doors in your house, you could use a pencil or a small screwdriver to etch a number or code on the top edge or hinge edge of each door (somewhere it won’t be visible after re-hanging). Then write the same number on a piece of tape inside the door’s frame or jamb. That way, Door #1 goes back to Frame #1, Door #2 to Frame #2, and so on. One simple system: face your front door from inside and call that “Door 1,” then moving clockwise through the house for numbering. Choose any system that works for you, just let us know if you’ve marked them so we can be aware. We will keep track of your items as well, but clear labels from you ensure there’s no mix-up of similar-looking doors or shutters. It’ll make your life much easier when it’s time to put everything back in place!

Q: What if I leave some hardware or fittings on the item? Will you remove them for me?
A: We really prefer you remove all fittings beforehand, because it’s safest. Our service doesn’t normally include dismantling items – when we receive them, we assume they’re ready to go into the stripping process. If you leave hardware on, two things may happen: (1) The caustic solution can damage or discolour those parts (for instance, brass or zinc hinges might turn greenish or black), and (2) small parts might get lost or broken during handling. We cannot guarantee the safety or return of any bits and bobs left on the item. We do our best – if something like a hinge or handle stays on, we’ll try to retrieve it and return it to you – but we can’t promise it will survive or that we’ll catch every screw that falls out. So, to avoid any disappointment, please remove everything you can. If a piece is truly stuck (stripped screw, etc.), you can alert us and we’ll see if we can help, but again we won’t accept liability for it in the tank. In summary: take off all hardware, or accept that it’s at your risk if left on.

The Stripping Process

Q: Will all the layers of paint or varnish be completely removed?
A: Almost all of the paint will be removed, but we don’t promise every last speck of coating will be gone. Our dipping process is very effective at loosening thick, built-up layers of oil-based paint – even multiple old coats can come off in one treatment. However, some modern finishes (especially water-based paints, acrylics, polyurethane varnish, spray lacquers, etc.) are very stubborn and resist chemical stripping. These might not come off fully in the caustic dip. In such cases, we’ll use additional techniques like hand-scraping or non-caustic solvent strippers to tackle whatever remains. We do our best to remove as much as possible, but you should expect that a few problem areas might remain: for example, a bit of paint deep in an intricate carving or in the wood grain pores, or patches of water-based undercoat that the dip couldn’t dissolve. Stains and wood dyes that have soaked into the wood will not come out through stripping alone. If your item had a dark stain or was once stripped with a blowtorch (leaving scorch marks), those marks might still be visible. Also, old filler (like Polyfilla used to fix holes) can be loosened or washed out during stripping, leaving clean holes that will need refilling later. Think of the stripping process as getting 90–95% of the heavy lifting done. The remaining 5–10% (like slight residues in crevices or a bit of final smoothing) typically requires some follow-up by the customer, such as sanding or fine scraping. We will certainly make “reasonable attempts” to get everything off – for instance, we often give items a second dip or a manual scrub if needed – but if your goal is a pristine, ready-to-varnish surface, be aware you’ll likely need to do a bit of finishing work after.

Q: How do you handle newer paints or delicate finishes?
A: When we encounter modern coatings that don’t respond to the usual dip, we switch to non-caustic stripping methods. This might mean using a different chemical stripper by hand, gentle scraping, or other specialized techniques to preserve the item. For example, many newer water-based paints will just shrug off a caustic bath – they’ll laugh at it and stay put. In those cases, we’ll apply a solvent-based gel or do careful hand scraping to lift those layers. It’s more time-consuming, but it protects the wood from harsh treatment. Similarly, if an item has delicate glues or inlays, we will avoid dunking it and instead strip it manually. The bottom line: we tailor the stripping method to the item. We won’t just dunk everything regardless of its condition – we’ll use our judgment. If we anticipate needing extensive hand stripping (which can be an additional service at extra cost in some cases), we’ll let you know in advance. Occasionally, we might even advise not stripping something if it’s too delicate (or suggest an alternative approach like gentle sanding). Your item’s safety is our priority.

Q: Can you strip metal items like iron fireplaces or radiators too?
A: Yes! We don’t only do wood – we handle metal items as well. Cast iron fireplaces, radiators, iron gates, brass hardware – we can remove paint from most metal objects. The process for metal is similar: we often use the caustic dip to soften and strip away layers of old paint on metalwork. One thing to note: while the paint will come off, stripping is not the same as de-rusting. If your metal item has rust under the paint, dipping will remove the paint but won’t magically eliminate all rust or corrosion. You may need to do a bit of wire brushing or we can discuss options (some items might benefit from sandblasting after stripping, for instance, if rust removal is needed). But for the paint itself, our tanks and strippers will get it off. After stripping, we’ll neutralize and oil or lightly wax metal items to prevent flash rust. So yes, feel free to bring us that ornate Victorian hinge or that old radiator – we’ll get the gunky paint off and reveal the metal beneath.

Q: Is it safe to strip items with lead-based paint?
A: Yes. In fact, our process is a good way to handle lead paint. Dip stripping keeps the lead paint wet, which prevents hazardous lead dust from spreading (a major concern when sanding or dry-scraping lead paint). We are experienced in dealing with older leaded paints on doors, windows, and radiators. Our caustic tank effectively removes lead-based paint layers, and we neutralize and dispose of the resulting sludge safely according to regulations. If your item has lead paint (common in pre-1970s pieces), you can trust that we’ll strip it in a controlled environment. We do advise that after you get the item back, if you do any sanding or further work, take precautions (wear a mask, clean up dust, etc.) because there could still be traces of lead in any remaining finish or in the wood grain. But the heavy stripping of lead paint will have been taken care of by us, sparing you from that hazardous chore.

Aftercare

Q: What should I do with my door or furniture once it’s been stripped and returned to me?
A: When you get your freshly stripped item back, it will usually be clean but still slightly damp from our final rinse, especially for wood items. The first thing to do is let it dry out slowly and thoroughly. For doors, the best practice is to re-hang them in their frames right away, if possible. Hanging the door helps it keep its proper shape as it dries (plus it gets it off the floor). If rehanging immediately isn’t an option, store the door flat on some wooden battens or upright straight against a wall – avoid leaving it leaning at a steep angle or in direct heat. Allow about 5–10 days for a door to dry fully indoors (depending on the season and your heating) before you do any further work on it. For furniture, place it in a well-ventilated area and let it air-dry; open drawers or doors on cabinets to let inside parts dry too. You might notice the wood looks a bit darker or feels cool – that’s the moisture. As it dries, do not force-dry it with high heat (no radiators or aggressive heaters, as that could cause warping). Room temperature with good airflow is ideal. Also, when the item first comes back, protect your floors or carpets just in case a bit of water or residue leaches out; putting some newspaper or dust sheets down for the first day or two is a good idea. It’s normal for wood to feel slightly damp and even “weep” a little in the first 24 hours after stripping – this is just the last bits of rinse water coming out of crevices.

Q: Will I need to sand or refinish the item after stripping?
A: Yes, in most cases you will. Our stripping service leaves you with a bare, paint-free surface, but not a finished one. Typically, you should plan to do a light sanding once the wood is completely dry. Sanding will smooth out any grain raising or slight roughness caused by the stripping and will remove any tiny paint flecks or wood fibres left on the surface. Start with a medium-fine grit and finish with a fine grit for a nice smooth touch. After sanding, it’s up to you how to finish your piece – you can repaint it, stain and varnish it, wax it, oil it, or otherwise treat it as you like. Remember that stripped wood can look a bit dull or uneven in colour until it’s finished. For example, pine might have dark and light patches, or oak may be quite dark after caustic dipping – these will even out or become beautiful highlights once you apply a finish. Also, if any old nail holes or cracks opened up (or any filler fell out during stripping), you’ll want to fill those and do any minor repairs before final finishing. The good news is that after stripping, you’re working with a clean surface, which makes for a great painting or staining base. Just ensure the wood is dry; if you paint while the wood still has moisture, you could trap that moisture inside.

Q: Do I need to neutralize the wood or worry about leftover chemicals before refinishing?
A: We take care of neutralizing the item after stripping as part of our process – every wood item is thoroughly rinsed and washed after the caustic dip. By the time it leaves our workshop, it should not have any significant chemical residue. Once the piece is dry, it’s generally ready for finishing. If you want extra peace of mind, you can wipe the wood down with a dilute vinegar solution and then water, but in most cases this isn’t necessary. One thing to note: woods like oak or chestnut sometimes react with iron in the presence of caustic and water, causing dark streaks (for instance if there were nails left in that rusted). We do our best to avoid this by removing metal and neutralizing thoroughly. If you do see any slight white residue on the surface when dry (rare, but occasionally a bit of salt may crystallize out of deep pores), a wipe with a damp cloth or a light sand will remove it. Essentially, by the time you’re ready to repaint or stain, the wood is clean – just make sure it’s bone-dry. Using a good primer/sealer before painting is always recommended, which will further ensure there are no issues with the new finish adhering.

Q: Will the wood look like it did originally after stripping?
A: The wood will definitely look different – and usually far better – once the layers of old paint are gone, but it may not look exactly like it did when new (at least not immediately). Expect the stripped wood to have a raw, matte appearance with varied colouring. Often, customers are pleasantly surprised: beautiful grain patterns and details that were hidden under paint will be revealed. However, you might also see some imperfections or discolorations that were previously concealed. For instance, certain woods can darken after a caustic dip (oak, for example, tends to turn a deeper shade). You may also find old repairs, patches, or even scorch marks from past paint-removal attempts that become visible. These are part of the item’s history and character. Don’t be alarmed if the bare wood isn’t uniformly “pretty” at first sight – older pieces often simply need sanding and some finish to look their best again. Remember, stripping is the first step in restoration. Once you do the final finishing (even just a clear coat), the wood’s true beauty will come out. We like to remind folks: you’ve essentially rolled back decades of paint; now a little finish work will bring out the charm that was hiding underneath.

Q: Do you offer sanding, painting or other finishing services after stripping?
A: Our core service is to strip off the old paint/varnish and return the item to you in a bare state. We do not typically include fine sanding, repainting, staining, or sealing as part of the standard job. The assumption is you (or your decorator/furniture restorer) will handle the finishing touches to your taste. That said, we’re happy to provide basic advice on how to proceed. We can tell you what kind of finish might work well, or how to address any minor issues on the bare wood. In some cases, by prior arrangement, we might be able to do additional work – for example, a basic sand-down, or applying a simple wax finish – but this would be discussed and quoted separately in advance. If you require more extensive restoration (like structural repairs, bespoke staining, French polishing, etc.), we can often recommend a specialist or direct you to resources, as those go beyond our normal scope. Our mission is to hand you a paint-free piece and make sure you’re set up to complete whatever vision you have for it next.

Delivery & Payment

Q: Do you offer a collection and delivery service?
A: Yes, we do. We can collect your items and deliver them back to you after stripping, for your convenience. We are based in Hull but serve customers all over the UK. For local customers in Hull and surrounding areas, we often provide our pick-up/drop-off service free or for a small fee, depending on your location and the number of items (we’ll confirm any charge upfront). For longer distances (anywhere in the UK), we can arrange either our own driver or a courier service; any additional transport cost for far-off locations will be clearly agreed upon beforehand. The process is simple: we’ll schedule a date and a time window with you for collection. Our driver will come to the address, load up your doors or furniture carefully, and take them to our workshop. Once the work is done, we’ll arrange a return delivery time. Please note, while we strive to be punctual, the timing is an estimate (traffic and weather can sometimes cause delays). If anything causes a schedule change, we will communicate with you promptly and reschedule as needed. We ask that someone be present at the agreed time for both pickup and drop-off, or let us know if you plan to leave the item in a safe place for collection. If no one is home and no prior arrangement is made, we may not be able to collect/deliver, and a reattempt could incur an extra charge, so coordination is key. We handle all items with care – our vehicles have proper padding and straps to secure your pieces during transit. However, do note that items are transported at the customer’s own risk (much like using a moving company). We very rarely have any issues, but if you have particularly valuable pieces, you might consider your own insurance during transport. Overall, our collection & delivery option is there to make the process hassle-free for you, sparing you the trouble of hauling large doors in your car!

Q: My doors are upstairs – will you take them off or bring them down?
A: Generally, we need you to have the items readily accessible on the ground floor when we arrive. For safety and efficiency, our drivers typically cannot remove doors from their frames or carry heavy furniture down multiple flights of stairs without prior arrangement. Please have the doors removed from their hinges and brought down to a convenient pickup point (like your hallway or garage) before our driver gets there. We certainly understand not everyone can lug a door downstairs – if you absolutely need assistance with that, let us know in advance. We may be able to accommodate or send an extra person (there might be an additional fee for that service). The key is communication: if access is tricky (e.g., a loft ladder or tight staircase), inform us when booking so we can plan accordingly. We just want to avoid damaging your property (or our backs!) during collection. Once items are at ground level, we’re happy to do the heavy lifting out to our van. And when we deliver back, we’ll bring them to your door. From there, you’ll want a helper to get them re-hung or moved to their final spot. Our goal is a smooth, safe pickup and delivery with no scuffed walls or strained muscles along the way.

Q: When and how do I pay for the service?
A: No deposit is required in most cases; you simply pay when the work is completed. Once your item has been stripped and is ready to return to you, that’s when payment is due. For local customers, this often means you’ll pay at the time you pick up the item from our workshop, or you can pay our driver upon delivery (we can accept cash on delivery or even a quick bank transfer or card payment on the spot). If we’re sending your item back via courier or you’re not present for delivery, we’ll ask that you settle the bill before we dispatch the item. We’ll notify you as soon as the job is done, provide you with the final price (which, unless the item was very different from described, should match our quote or price list), and you can pay online or over the phone prior to return shipping. We accept cash, major credit/debit cards, and bank transfers for payment. (Sorry, we generally do not accept personal cheques.) All prices we quote are in GBP (£) and include all costs – we’re a small operation and currently not VAT-registered, so there’s no VAT to add on top. Essentially, the price we agree on is what you pay, no surprises. Once payment is received, we’ll hand back your item along with a receipt if you need one. Tip: If you’re having us deliver the item back to you, sorting out payment beforehand (like a bank transfer that’s cleared) can make the drop-off quicker and easier. But if you prefer to inspect the item first, paying upon delivery is fine too – whatever works for you, as long as we get payment at handover.

Q: What if I need to cancel my order or change plans?
A: We understand that plans can change. If you decide to cancel before we’ve started work, that’s generally fine – just let us know as soon as possible. We don’t charge a cancellation fee if we haven’t done any work yet and haven’t made a special trip. However, if you booked a collection and we’ve already sent a driver out to you when you cancel at the last minute or at the door, we may need to charge a small call-out fee to cover that wasted trip. Now, once your item is in our workshop and we’ve begun the stripping process, cancellation is not possible without incurring the full charge. The reason is that the work starts quickly (often on the same day or next day after we receive the item), and once a door or furniture goes into the dip, the process cannot be undone. At that point, we will have expended time, labour, and materials, so we do have to charge for the service even if you change your mind mid-way. So please be sure you want to proceed when you hand over the item. Similarly, you cannot “return” a stripping service once it’s done – if, for example, you decide you didn’t actually want the piece stripped after all, unfortunately we can’t rewind time (your old paint is gone and cannot be put back!). We do our very best to communicate beforehand to make sure you’re comfortable with everything. If you have any doubts, feel free to ask lots of questions before we start. It’s much better to pause or hold off than to have regrets later. In summary: Free to cancel if work hasn’t started (just give us a heads-up), but once we’ve started, you’ll be responsible for the full cost of the job.

Q: What if I’m not satisfied with the results? Do you offer refunds or rework?
A: We truly aim for every customer to be happy with our work, and we stand by the quality of our service. However, because of the very nature of paint stripping, there are limitations to what can be achieved (as we’ve outlined in Risks & Results). If your item comes back and, say, there’s a small patch of paint in a deep carving, or the wood turned out darker than expected, or a hidden repair is now visible – those are normal outcomes of the process and not due to any negligence on our part, so they wouldn’t typically be grounds for a refund. Dissatisfaction with inherent, expected results (like some residual stain or wood grain appearance) does not entitle a refund. We make sure to inform you of these possibilities beforehand for this reason. Now, if we genuinely made a mistake or missed something that we reasonably should have done, we will absolutely work to make it right. For example, if you find a large area of paint that clearly could have been stripped but was overlooked, or (in a very unlikely scenario) we stripped the wrong item, then please tell us immediately. In such cases, we would likely offer to re-strip the item or address the issue at no additional cost. Each situation will be assessed individually. In the extremely rare event that a re-strip or fix isn’t possible and it was a clear fault on our end, we may consider a partial refund, but that is at our discretion and would be a last resort. It’s worth noting that because stripping is irreversible and labour-intensive, we do not offer full refunds for completed work except in extraordinary circumstances. Fortunately, problems are quite uncommon. We encourage you to inspect the item upon pickup/delivery – if you’re present when we deliver, take a look while our driver is there. If something concerns you, point it out then and there. Many times what seems like an “issue” can be part of the wood’s character or easily sorted with a bit of sanding. We’ll gladly discuss it with you. Our goal is that you feel informed and get the result you expected based on our transparent explanations. If something truly went wrong, we’ll cooperate to find a fair solution. But if it’s simply a case of the wood not looking as one hoped due to circumstances beyond our control, we hope you understand that we cannot be responsible for that. We value our customers and our reputation, so we will always be honest and do what we can to ensure you’re satisfied within the realistic bounds of the service.