Answers to the most common questions about door stripping, furniture stripping, preparation, risks, aftercare, delivery and payment.
Paint stripping is a restoration process, not a factory reset. The right method depends on the item, the coating, the material and the condition.
If you are unsure whether something can be stripped, send us photos first. We can usually advise quickly and give you the safest option.
We can strip paint and varnish from a wide range of items, including wooden doors, furniture, radiators, metal hardware, and similar pieces. Whether it’s an interior pine door, a chest of drawers, a cast iron fireplace, or even architectural fittings, we likely have experience with it.
Our process works on both wood and metal surfaces. We commonly restore old panel doors, tables, chairs, and cast iron radiators. If you have a specific item in mind, feel free to ask. As long as it’s solid wood or solid metal, we can probably strip it.
We use a “dip and strip” caustic tank process for many items, coupled with gentler hand-stripping for others. In our workshop, items are soaked in a warmed solution of caustic soda, also known as sodium hydroxide, which efficiently removes multiple layers of old oil-based or lead-based paint. After dipping, we rinse the item thoroughly with water to neutralise the chemicals.
Modern water-based paints, acrylics, and polyurethane varnishes are not removed well by caustic dipping. For those delicate or newer finishes, we use non-caustic methods, essentially hand stripping with specialist solvent-based strippers or other techniques, to gently lift those coatings.
We choose the safest and most effective method for each item’s finish. All work is done by our own trained staff at our facility; we do not send your items to any third party.
All work is carried out in-house at our Hull workshop by our team. We do not perform on-site stripping at a customer’s location, because our process involves large tanks and controlled equipment.
You will need to either drop off your items with us or use our collection and delivery service. Keeping everything in-house lets us maintain full quality control and safety during the stripping process.
We understand the concern. It would be wrong to say there is zero risk, as every piece of wood is a unique natural product. That said, with our expertise and careful techniques, the vast majority of doors and furniture come through the stripping process just fine.
Wood can occasionally warp, crack, or joints may loosen when subjected to the stripping and drying process, especially if an item was fragile to begin with. Such occurrences are uncommon, but they can happen.
We minimise risks by assessing each item, including wood type and construction, and adjusting our methods accordingly. Most solid wood doors are quite safe to dip, but we will never guarantee 100% that no issues will arise. We use our experience to make it as safe as possible, and if we suspect a piece is too delicate, we will discuss alternatives with you.
Yes. Only solid wood and solid metal items are fully suitable for caustic tank stripping. Items made of MDF, chipboard, particle board, hardboard, or very thin plywood, laminate or veneer layers are generally not suitable. They can absorb water and chemicals and may warp, delaminate, or even fall apart during or after the process.
Chipboard, thin laminate and MDF should never be dipped. If you have a veneered door or furniture with a thin wood veneer over a core, please let us know. We might attempt a non-caustic hand strip on it at your request, but there is a high risk the veneer could lift or blister, and we cannot guarantee it will not be damaged.
Certain solid woods that are very dry or resinous, such as old pitch pine, beech, oak and ash, can technically be dipped, but they do not always like it and may be more prone to warping or discolouration. We can still strip those, but we will use extra care or alternative methods as appropriate.
Anything with plastic or fabric components should not be dipped. Plastics can melt, and fabric will not survive the process. If you are unsure about an item’s materials, we are happy to advise.
Our typical turnaround is just a few days per item in most cases. For example, dipping and cleaning a door might take around 5–7 working days under normal conditions. We will give you an estimated timeframe when you book in your item.
This can vary depending on factors like how many layers of paint are on the piece, the type of finish, and our current workload. Thick paint or intricate pieces might require extra treatments and take a bit longer.
We always strive to work efficiently, but we will not rush at the expense of quality. If you have a deadline, let us know and we will do our best. It is wise not to schedule critical work too tightly around the estimated completion time, as unforeseen delays can happen.
Proper preparation is very important. Remove all hardware and fittings from your items before we strip them. This means taking off things like door knobs, handles, locks, latches, letterboxes, knockers, hooks, decorative metal pieces and glass.
If you are sending a door, take it off its hinges. You can leave the hinge plates on the door if you find it easier, but definitely unscrew it from the frame. Remove any glass panels or mirrors as well. These should not go in the dip tank.
Check for small metal pieces such as screws, nails, tacks or staples and remove those if possible. Paint tends to linger under hardware and around screws, plus metal can react with the stripping solution.
If something is truly stuck or you are unable to remove it, let us know. We can try to work around it, but it will be at your own risk if it stays on during stripping.
Yes. Always remove glass or mirrors if you can. We strongly recommend that any glass in doors, or mirrored panels in furniture, be taken out before stripping.
The chemicals and handling involved in the process can seriously damage glass. Glass can develop hairline cracks from rapid temperature changes, old stained glass can be weakened, mirror silvering can get cloudy, and chemical fumes can creep behind leaded glass panes. The putty holding old panes can also soften and fall out.
We will strip an item with glass in it only if you insist and accept the risk, but we cannot be responsible for any breakage, clouding or damage to the glass that occurs.
When you have multiple items, it is a great idea to label or mark them so you know what is what later. We encourage customers to discreetly mark each door and its corresponding frame location.
For example, if you are stripping all the doors in your house, you could use a pencil or a small screwdriver to mark a number or code on the top edge or hinge edge of each door, somewhere it will not be visible after re-hanging. Then write the same number on a piece of tape inside the door frame or jamb.
We will keep track of your items as well, but clear labels from you help make sure there is no mix-up of similar-looking doors or shutters.
We really prefer you remove all fittings beforehand, because it is safest. Our service does not normally include dismantling items. When we receive them, we assume they are ready to go into the stripping process.
If you leave hardware on, the caustic solution can damage or discolour those parts, and small parts might get lost or broken during handling. Brass or zinc hinges, for example, might turn greenish or black.
We do our best if something stays on, but we cannot guarantee the safety or return of any fittings left on the item. Please remove everything you can, or accept that it is at your risk if left on.
Almost all of the paint will be removed, but we do not promise every last speck of coating will be gone. Our dipping process is very effective at loosening thick, built-up layers of oil-based paint. However, some modern finishes, especially water-based paints, acrylics, polyurethane varnish and spray lacquers, are very stubborn and resist chemical stripping.
In those cases, we may use additional techniques like hand scraping or non-caustic solvent strippers to tackle what remains. You should expect that a few problem areas might remain, such as paint deep in carving, wood grain pores, corners, or patches of water-based undercoat that the dip could not dissolve.
Stains and wood dyes that have soaked into the wood will not come out through stripping alone. Old filler can also be loosened or washed out during stripping, leaving clean holes that may need refilling later.
Think of the stripping process as getting 90–95% of the heavy lifting done. The remaining fine finishing usually requires some follow-up by the customer, such as sanding or detail work.
When we encounter modern coatings that do not respond to the usual dip, we switch to non-caustic stripping methods. This might mean using a different chemical stripper by hand, gentle scraping, or other specialist techniques to preserve the item.
Many newer water-based paints do not react properly in a caustic bath. In those cases, we may apply a solvent-based gel or do careful hand scraping to lift those layers. It takes more time, but it protects the wood from harsh treatment.
We tailor the stripping method to the item. We will not just dunk everything regardless of condition. If extensive hand stripping is needed, we will let you know in advance.
Yes. We handle metal items as well as wood. Cast iron fireplaces, radiators, iron gates, brass hardware and many other metal objects can be stripped.
The process for metal is similar. We often use the caustic dip to soften and strip away layers of old paint on metalwork. Stripping removes paint, but it is not the same as de-rusting. If your metal item has rust under the paint, dipping will remove the paint but will not magically remove all rust or corrosion.
After stripping, we neutralise and protect metal items to help prevent flash rust. Some items may also benefit from further preparation, such as wire brushing, rust treatment, sanding or blasting depending on the final finish required.
Yes. Our process is a good way to handle lead paint because dip stripping keeps the lead paint wet, which helps prevent hazardous lead dust from spreading. This is a major concern when sanding or dry scraping lead paint.
We are experienced in dealing with older leaded paints on doors, windows and radiators. Our caustic tank removes lead-based paint layers in a controlled environment.
If you do any sanding or further work after the item is returned, take precautions such as wearing a suitable mask and cleaning up dust carefully, because there could still be traces in any remaining finish or in the wood grain.
The more detail we have at the start, the easier it is to advise on the right method and price.
Upload clear photos from both sides, plus close-ups of damage, rust, repairs or heavy coatings.
Include rough sizes, your postcode, the item type and whether you need collection, delivery or refitting.
We will advise on the best method, likely turnaround and any finishing options worth considering.
Arrange drop-off, collection, delivery or a site visit for larger metalwork and specialist jobs.
When you get your freshly stripped item back, it will usually be clean but still slightly damp from our final rinse, especially for wood items. The first thing to do is let it dry out slowly and thoroughly.
For doors, the best practice is to re-hang them in their frames right away if possible. Hanging the door helps it keep its proper shape as it dries. If rehanging immediately is not an option, store the door flat on wooden battens or upright straight against a wall. Avoid leaving it leaning at a steep angle or in direct heat.
Allow about 5–10 days for a door to dry fully indoors before you do any further work on it. Furniture should be placed in a well-ventilated area and allowed to air dry. Open drawers or doors on cabinets so inside parts can dry too.
Do not force-dry the item with high heat. Room temperature with good airflow is ideal. Protect floors or carpets in the first day or two in case a little water or residue leaches out.
Yes, in most cases you will. Our stripping service leaves you with a bare, paint-free surface, but not a finished one. Typically, you should plan to do a light sanding once the wood is completely dry.
Sanding smooths out grain raising or slight roughness caused by stripping and removes any tiny paint flecks or wood fibres left on the surface. After sanding, you can repaint, stain, varnish, wax, oil or otherwise treat the item as you like.
If old nail holes, cracks or filler opened up during stripping, you may want to fill and repair those before final finishing.
We take care of neutralising the item after stripping as part of our process. Every wood item is thoroughly rinsed and washed after the caustic dip. By the time it leaves our workshop, it should not have significant chemical residue.
Once the piece is dry, it is generally ready for finishing. If you see any slight white residue on the surface when dry, a wipe with a damp cloth or a light sand should remove it.
The most important thing is making sure the wood is completely dry before painting, sealing, oiling or waxing.
The wood will look different once the layers of old paint are gone, and usually far better, but it may not look exactly like it did when new. Expect a raw, matte appearance with varied colouring.
Beautiful grain patterns and details that were hidden under paint may be revealed. You may also see imperfections, discolourations, old repairs, patches or scorch marks that were previously concealed.
Do not be alarmed if the bare wood is not uniformly pretty at first sight. Older pieces often need sanding and finishing to look their best again. Stripping is the first step in restoration.
Our core service is to strip off the old paint or varnish and return the item in a bare state. Fine sanding, repainting, staining or sealing is not normally included as part of the standard job.
That said, we are happy to provide advice on how to proceed. In some cases, by prior arrangement, we may be able to quote separately for additional work such as basic sanding or applying a simple wax finish.
Yes. We can collect your items and deliver them back to you after stripping. We are based in Hull but serve customers across the UK.
For local customers in Hull and surrounding areas, we often provide a pick-up and drop-off service for free or for a small fee, depending on location and number of items. We will confirm any charge upfront.
For longer distances, we can arrange either our own driver or a courier service. Any additional transport cost will be agreed beforehand.
Please make sure someone is present at the agreed time for both pickup and drop-off, or let us know if you plan to leave the item in a safe place. Items are transported with care, but transport is at the customer’s own risk.
Generally, we need items to be readily accessible on the ground floor when we arrive. For safety and efficiency, our drivers normally cannot remove doors from frames or carry heavy furniture down multiple flights of stairs without prior arrangement.
Please have doors removed from their hinges and brought down to a convenient pickup point before our driver arrives. If you need assistance, tell us in advance. We may be able to accommodate this or send an extra person, but there may be an additional fee.
No deposit is required in most cases. You simply pay when the work is completed. Once your item has been stripped and is ready to return, payment is due.
For local customers, this often means paying when you pick up the item from our workshop, or paying our driver upon delivery. We can accept cash, card payment or bank transfer.
If we are sending your item back via courier, or you are not present for delivery, we will ask that the bill is settled before dispatch. The price we agree is what you pay, unless the item was significantly different from described.
If you decide to cancel before we have started work, that is generally fine. Just let us know as soon as possible. We do not charge a cancellation fee if we have not done any work yet and have not made a special trip.
If you booked a collection and we have already sent a driver out when you cancel at the last minute, we may need to charge a call-out fee to cover the wasted trip.
Once your item is in our workshop and we have begun the stripping process, cancellation is not possible without incurring the full charge. Once a door or piece of furniture goes into the dip, the process cannot be undone.
We aim for every customer to be happy with our work, and we stand by the quality of our service. However, because of the nature of paint stripping, there are limitations to what can be achieved.
Small patches of paint in deep carvings, wood that turns out darker than expected, visible old repairs, discolouration, stains or character marks are normal outcomes of the process and would not usually be grounds for a refund.
If we have genuinely missed something that should reasonably have been stripped, please tell us. We may offer to re-strip or address the issue at no extra cost. Each situation is assessed individually.
Honesty about risks is important. The paint stripping process, especially dipping in caustic soda, is powerful, and with that comes some inherent risk to the items being treated.
The main risks are warping or cracking of wood, loosening of joints, and damage to certain materials like veneers. Wood items are dipped in a water-based solution, so they absorb some water and then dry. Most solid wood tolerates this well, but sometimes wood can swell and shrink, leading to warped panels or small cracks as it dries.
If joints were glued with old animal glue, caustic can dissolve that glue, meaning you might find a chair leg or door panel that wiggles loose after stripping. The solution is usually simple: wood glue and clamping.
Veneered and laminated surfaces pose a bigger risk. Thin veneers can bubble or detach when submerged. Even with gentle methods, old veneer adhesives may already be degraded and can still lift.
We manage these risks through experience and care. We inspect items on arrival, use appropriate methods for the material, and dry items slowly. Despite all precautions, the customer must understand that some risk is inherent in the process. We treat every piece carefully and most items strip beautifully without problems.
After stripping, your item will likely look dramatically different and better without all that paint, but it will not look brand new or finished yet. Think of it as returning to a blank canvas with character marks.
Stripping is a transformative step, but it is not the final step. Most customers are thrilled to see the natural material revealed. To reach a finished look, you will usually need sanding and your chosen finish afterwards.
Send photos, rough sizes and your postcode. We will tell you whether the item is suitable, which method is best, and what it is likely to cost.
